September 2008
We began the month still in Mallorca, really enjoying the
perfect weather and beautiful anchorage of Puerto de Soller.
We decided to take a day trip on a fast catamaran ferry boat up to Colabra which
is a beautiful cliff-sided bay north of Soller. We walked through
the tunnel in the mountain which led to a small beach with turquoise water
nestled between the cliffs. It
would have been breathtakingly beautiful were it not for the gazillion
people there! Tourists arrived non-stop by the busload and
boatload. The tunnel was so crowded people were stepping on my feet
and pushing against my back. This was definitely the most 'touristy' thing we've done
yet. We found a small table with a view and drank sangria until it
was time to return to the ferry.
The next day we tried to sail to Ibiza. However, with strong
gusty winds on the nose, we couldn't make it before sundown. So we
decided to anchor at a little bay called Cala de Deya just
south of Soller. On our way, we saw a dinghy full of people drifting
off the windy coast who were waving their arms at us. It was a man
and woman with their 3 small children. Apparently their dinghy motor
conked out and they couldn't get back to Deya rowing against the strong
current. I maneuvered Aquila around them in the choppy water while
Mike threw them a line. We towed them back to shore. They did
not speak English, but we communicated enough to learn that they spend
their summers at their home on Deya. They were very grateful for our
help and invited us to come to their home for 'free beer'. We
couldn't accept their offer because our dinghy was already strapped on top
of our deck for our passage to Ibiza, so we didn't have transportation to
shore. I regret missing the opportunity to make new friends and
getting to know these
Europeans who summer on Mallorca.
The "Sirocco" wind blew for the next few days. These
are the winds from the South which blow red dust from the Sahara desert
across the Mediterranean. Aquila is covered in red dust! We
kept rinsing the deck and portholes with buckets of water, but the bimini
and all the rigging needs a good wash down. The winds keep shifting,
so we have to check weather every day. Some of our nights have been
pretty rolly when the swell comes from the wrong direction.
We finally got a
good weather window to sail to Ibiza, so we left at 4 a.m. in the pitch
dark. We anchored in pretty Cala Portinatx at 5
p.m. A few days later, the forecasted north winds forced us to move
to Puerto San Antonio on the south side of the island.
San Antonio has a grassy harbor, and the only spot we could get anchored in
was quite exposed. The wind grew to 30 knots, and the swell grew
into breaking waves! Talk about a sleepless night. And the
wind was cold! The wind keeps shifting every few hours, so we don't
know where to go. Plus, each of our weather sites says something
different.
So we headed into the fetch and into the wind for Puerto San Miguel because
we are meeting Mark and Darlene there in a few days. The next day
the swell was down and the sun was shining. I decided to do some
laundry. Mike started the generator so I could run the washing
machine. After I got the laundry going, we thought we heard a funny
slurping sound coming from the generator. Then the generator
overheated and shut down. Now what?! Turns out we sucked
up a big jellyfish. Mike cleaned the disgusting chunks out of the
strainer basket and after letting her cool down, gennie started right back
up just fine. The next day the same thing happened, but we
recognized the sound and caught it right away before she overheated.
We received an early morning phone call from Mark and Darlene inviting us up to Na
Xamena for breakfast. They arrived the night before and had driven
up the dark, winding mountain road to their hilltop resort. Mark
drove down to the beach to pick us up. They treated us to a
wonderful poolside champagne breakfast at their luxurious hotel. Our
guidebook describes Na Xamena as the place to go to rub elbows with the
rich and famous. It is an amazing place and we enjoyed hanging out
with Mark and Darlene, swimming in the heated indoor pool, drinking
champagne on their balcony, and enjoying the incredible views.
Mark had a rental car, so we spent the next two days touring the
island, eating and drinking at fun little places along the way. We
drank sangria in Eularia, ate paella in Ibiza City,
had beer and nachos in San Antonio, and enjoyed a moonlit
dinner on the beach in San Miguel. One afternoon was
spent swimming off the boat, with the guys entertaining Darlene and me
with their underwater disappearing swim trunks routine. Bet you
thought the moon only came out at night! The next day the weather
turned gray as we said goodbye to Mark and Darlene. I'm so glad the
weather was nice for their visit before they had to leave. We can't
wait to meet up with them again. Plans were made for future trips
which we are really looking forward to.
A terrific swell started at 1 a.m. and kept us awake the rest of the
night throwing us back and forth. Sigh. Couldn't wait to leave
in the morning. We headed south again and anchored at Cala
Bedella. The days are getting cooler and the crowds are
thinning as the high season comes to an end. The beaches still have
tourists, but there are empty lounge chairs out there. We only see one or two
other boats in the anchorages now. We sailed to a little cala that
our friends Alan and Joan on s/v Moonstruck told us about.
(Moonstruck's Website: www.alanjoanhere.com)
They said to keep this anchorage a secret so that it can remain quiet and
unspoiled. It is very pretty with steep red cliffs and lined with
little fishing huts. Plus it is well protected from the
weather. They did not mention to us that totally nude sunbathers
favor this location. There aren't any beaches here, but that didn't
stop the sunbathers from spreading their towels on the fishing boat launch
ramps.
Our next anchorage was Espalmadora where we could find
the famous blue mud. It was too cold and windy for me to get excited
about taking the dinghy to shore, hiking to the mud, smearing it all over my
body, and then walking back to the beach to rinse it off. We plan to return to these islands in two years with our
kids and grandkids and we will slather on the blue mud at that
time. The
weather continued to deteriorate and rain clouds rolled in. It
rained hard all night which gave us the fresh water rinse that we so badly
needed.
We sailed back up the island again to get as far north as we can before
setting off across the Mediterranean Sea for Barcelona.
Conditions worsened throughout the day. The sea got rough and the
sky got dark. The rain and wind were so cold that we put on our foul
weather gear. We anchored at Cala Binirras and had a
moderate swell all night. We continued on to Cala Portinatx
the next day under nice skies. The weather was so nice that Mike put
on his scuba tank and cleaned the bottom of the boat and changed the
zincs. We checked weather and determined that we need to sail to
Barcelona in the morning. The weather is getting bad here, so we've
got to go now. Then, lo and behold, we met another American flagged
boat! Bill and Diane on s/v Argonaut came over for cocktails.
Then they headed out at 8 p.m. to do an overnight to Mallorca to meet
Diane's brother. Our last night in the Balearic Islands and we meet
our first Americans!
It took 30 hours to sail from Ibiza across the Mediterranean Sea to Barcelona.
The weather wasn't good. We had rain, lightning and winds up to 30
knots coming right at us. The night was dark, and the sea was steep
with breaking waves washing over our bow. The conditions were worse
than any we experienced crossing the Atlantic Ocean. It wasn't
frightening, just miserable. It made me glad that we would be in a
marina for 6 months. I feel ready for a break after such an awful
night. We arrived in Barcelona and got settled into our berth at
Port Vell Marina at 1 p.m. on Saturday, Sept. 27.
This is going to be a totally different experience. Barcelona is
a major city with lots of hustle bustle. Port Vell is
a really nice marina right in the heart of the city. We are in a
berth side by side with hundreds of other boats and other people living
just a few feet away. I'm excited about this new experience, but
maybe just a little bit worried about missing the peace and quiet of being
at anchor. Did I say I was looking forward to being in a marina for
6 months? We have spent the last couple of days walking, walking,
walking. Learning where things are, getting acclimated and
such. So far, this is a very entertaining place. We still need
to get our metro pass and learn to take the trains and buses. We
have many sights to see, and lots of time to do it all, so we will pace
ourselves. I'll let you know how we are doing in next month's
update!
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